In June 2024, I revisited Bidong Island on two separate occasions to continue my work on island and below the sea of the island.
The first of these visits came through the invitation of Dr. Hafiz Borkhanuddin, Director of Marine Biology at University Malaysia Terengganu, to join him and his Masters students on their monthly research dives to examine the state of the marine ecosystem on the sea bed around Bidong. This was a long and exhaustive day under the heavy sun of an exceptionally hot Terengganu summer. According to Dr. Hafiz, the intense heat of June had brought with it a heavy bleaching event upon the corals of Bidong. A widespread series of deaths hit many species of corals from corals that are the size of a hand to size of a mattress.
Joining the team for such a long and focused day that extended into the evening for debriefing, transformed my relationship to Bidong. My relationship with Bidong began through my own one-way projection upon the island based on its traumatic history, wherein I expected for the island to have a psychological burden of sorrow. Having experienced a full working day by people who treat the island as a part of their livelihood and research environment, I now have a more realistic relationship to Bidong. This was certainly the case as I observed the joy and satisfaction of the marine research team as they underwent their dives to search and study for what they had been looking, such as the diversity of white sea slugs that support the ecosystem. Further, laying on the boat for a quick nap created an intimate quotidian relationship to the island.
The second visit this summer was joined by my friend Darius where we recounted our steps last year. This year the Terengganu State Museum had cleared dense forest to create a foot path that traces the route where different facilities and lodgings were formerly located in Bidong. These locations are marked with new sign posts, and included language schools, cooking facilities, and aid stations. Mosquitos swarmed us as we moved through rough footpath trying to evade red ants. The main beach that we had landed upon was undergoing the construction of concrete wave walls to reduce the burden of the sea on the beach. I wonder how this new environmental egineering of the island will impact its ecosystem and how people may relate to its history of the island. If the natural gradation of the beach is erased by a concrete cliff so will the means of imagining refugees finding land underneath the feet as the swam to shore after abandoning their boats from a far to avoid the Malaysian coast guard. On this second excursion to Bidong I had taken the same boat that I had last year and from my first visit this summer with the marine biologists. The boat was also also captained by the same person, Toro.
The greatest impact that my visits to Bidong had upon me is my normalisation of and desentimentalization to the island. Bidong is not locked in the misery of history but is rather a living and breathing site where people continue make lives for themselves. The island is a place of traumatic history but is perhaps, even more so, a site where human and non-human life continue to gather.